Goat Trotters (Paya)

Goat trotters (paya means feet) are almost entirely skin, cartilage and bone, which is exactly the point: hours of slow simmering dissolve their collagen into a rich, gelatinous broth that sets to jelly when cold. Thaw and rinse well, then simmer for 4 to 6 hours, or pressure cook, until the broth is silky and the soft bits pull from the bone.

This is the base of the classic paya, a spiced trotter stew eaten across Pakistan, India and Afghanistan, traditionally a slow weekend or breakfast dish. The gelatinous broth is prized both for flavour and as a traditional food for joints. There is no rushing it; the long, gentle cook is what draws out the collagen.